Unknown Giant

I had picked up this giant some time back. Seen below is the image of the plant post cutting, carving. As you go below, you can see the actual plant.

I do not know as what variety of plant this is, but will figure out, once the leaves start to show up. The wood though it looks very hard, is actually pulpy & soft. The trunk base is like 1.5 to 2 feet & the current height is approx 2 feet.

Rest I will be updating soon, once I come to know how to remove this underline.

After Pruning & Repotting:

Removing Tap roots for repotting

Before Re potting & Pruning

Wood carving done

Dead branch before scooping

Close up of Trunk

Position for repotting

Right Side view of plant

Left side view of the Plant

Back side view of the Plant

Front Side view of the Plant

Wind swept style

Well this is not a style for bonsai beginners as its movement of the branches & overall tree that matters. Leaves, Flowers & Fruits cannot sustain longer duration of strong windy condition & eventually fall and wither away.

You'll find wind swept style trees on Mountain cliffs in nature where winds blows in one direction thought the year. As a result, you will find growth in the opposite side also know as sheltered region. Young branch on the windy side either break or they bend as much as 150 degrees & start growing in the opposite direction, which can be considered as deformity in other bonsai styles.

Windswept style bonsai is characterized by strong & twisted long branches and do not have a very strong sub branching. Leaves, fruits & flowers are just notional. Further branches can be of equal lengths but most of them are long & wavy. Only the branches on the windy side are small. Remember that younger branch will bend more compared to older branches.

The fall of branches should be towards the ground, because of gush of winds & gravity if wind is blowing from the side, or towards the sky if wind is blowing from the bottom i.e. from the valley. The branches should not be placed horizontally as in case of formal or informal style.

Winds don't come down from top, and for those who believe that it does, than go for cascade style & not wind swept.

Heavy winds results in broken branches on the windy side & hence add jin to create an impact. Adopting drift wood/phoenix graft /tanuki will enhance the overall look. Go for evergreen trees rather than deciduous trees. Juniper are the best for this style.

ramesh sinha

ahmedabad bonsai club, gujarat, india

Tips on selecting appropriate pot for your Bonsai

Tips on selecting appropriate pot for your Bonsai

Off late something else is keeping me occupied and hence my contribution on this blog is limited. Nevertheless, few days back I got a chance to go through few articles on Bonsai Pot selection and thought of sharing the key points to be kept in mind when selecting a pot for bonsai.

#1 - When you look at a Bonsai Tree, it is the tree that should stand out & not the pot. If colour, shape or texture of the pot hits your eye first, something is seriously wrong. Thumb rule is when you look at the mirror, you should get to see your reflection without any distortions. If Golden frame of mirror hits your eye, than the purpose of the mirror is lost. Also remember $ 5 Bonsai & $500 Bonsai Pot does not make $505 Bonsai.

# 2 - The height of the pot should be equal to with diameter of the trunk.

# 4 - Angular pots (Rectangle, square, hexagonal design) go with Bonsai with Masculine characteristics like Sari, Jin, Dead branches, etc.

# 5 - Oval, round pots go well with Bonsai with Feminine characteristics like Flowers, soft branches, good foliage, etc.

# 6 - The depth of the pot should be slightly less than the spread of the Tree

# 7 - The length of the Pot should not be more than 2/3 of the tree size

# 8 - For cascade style - select appropriate pots, it should not be plated in oval or trays

# 9 - For Literati style, go for oval or round pots

# 10 - For forest style, go for rectangular trays with low height such that user can go into the landscape & see the plantations

# 11 - Go for unglazed pot for evergreen trees like pines, etc.

# 12 - Go for glazed pots for flowering, deciduous trees and pot can be of contracting colour to enhance the look of the bonsai during spring & autumn

# 13 - for mame bonsai, go for bright colour pots

# 14 - The base of the pot should be smaller than top of the top to give lighter effect

# 15 - Pots should have enough holes

remember, there is only one rule for training pots - bigger the better. The above rules are applicable only in case of a Trained bonsai, ready for display.

I will love to add more points, so please feel free to contribute.

Ramesh Sinha, Ahmedabad Bonsai Club

9924332267